18 April 2019

Brandy - Addressing Dog Reactivity With A Pet Corrector

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so what we're gonna do real quick here

is I'm gonna have you be my assistant here actually so I'm gonna show you guys a couple of techniques here to just like help start to address some general dog reactivity and stuff so what we're gonna be doing hang on fanny-pack here is we're gonna be addressing some of the impulsive dog reactivity and talking about some of that here so obviously a lot of the problems we have a restraint based right you could tell that kind of that dragging as he saw this dog or as she saw this dog is what's creating a lot of these problems right but in addition to that dog reactivity a lot of times is an impulse control issue right so it's the dog not understanding how to control that impulse of wanting to get to the other dog whether to play whether to fight whether because they're nervous are scared or whatever it may be so what we're gonna be doing is we're gonna be addressing the specific impulse of engaging in the other dog right so what we're gonna do as soon as he gets me this slip lead is I'm gonna have you walk kind of out closer to that fence and you're gonna start approaching and what we're gonna be looking for is the impulsive forward movement towards the

dog any forward movement at all so beautiful look at this now we're putting this on obviously so this collar here I would definitely recommend having your dog on something else whether it's a martingale or a slip lead or something no problem oh yeah looping it like with the handle good call I'll set this right there okay cool so we're gonna do is we're gonna start with the pet corrector here a lot of times with dog reactivity I tend to find that a pet corrector in some cases can be very very beneficial for addressing the initial act of reacting before I have the e-collar completely conditioned in now a lot of this is because this is more of a psychological tool right so the e car is a physical thing that the dog is feeling it's something that's physically motivating the dog where reactivity when you have a dog that's hyper fixated on something is more of a psychological thing right they're more they're more mentally engaged with what's going on over there so what I want to do is I want to shift that attention away from this dog and onto me so again what I'm going to do is I'm going to hang out

right here I'm gonna have you go out to about that fence and what you're gonna do is you're in a turn you're gonna start walking back in this direction and what I'm gonna be doing is I'm gonna be watching this dog's paws right I'm not watching the attention I'm not watching the ears or anything I'm watching the paws and looking for that first sign of the impulse of moving towards this dog here right what I'm gonna do is the second that I see that impulse of taking one step in the direction of this dog I'm gonna mark with no and I'm gonna give a spray with a pet corrector here right so what I'm trying to do is I'm trying to catch it right at the very beginning of that sequence of escalation before she hits the point where she's completely exploding right because again it being an impulse control issue that first impulse is still reacting it's reacting to seeing this dog and feeling like it should be moving forward right what I want to ultimately see is that as this dog is approaching if this dog feels like that pressure is too much I want to see your actually move away right see a lot of people with dog reactivity try to ask their dog to sit

or down or things like that and a lot of times I've seen that make it worse because again them not being able to kind of control that impulse and that pressure and feeling restrained like I have to hold this sit right now can cause them to load more right all right so yeah if you go ahead and walk over that way and then you're just gonna start approaching here so loose on the leash watching the paws then you can go ahead and go back that way again alright know what I do is I give him a second to decompress you can see she's like what the heck was that these yeah I know what we're gonna do is we're going to repeat this process and see if we get anything different so you can start approaching again here again watching the pause I don't care about moving backwards or away from the trigger the only thing that I care about is moving towards no again a lot less intense but still a reaction nonetheless I'll be go back and then we're gonna do this again again moving away totally okay with that especially we have a very skittish dog just in general we saw that at the beginning with me we saw this in some of

the training that we were doing and stuff so because of that again if I'm trying to say like sit right there like we see this dog needs to be moving or all she feels you know she feels a lot less comfortable because of that no again forward motion still no you go ahead and keep walking past a couple of times here it's from the noise of the spray he wanted to go to the haze like what the heck okay now if you just walked past a couple more times here if you want you can come even just a little bit closer so Alto we'll talk about that in a second here [Applause] [Applause] again I'm starting to get the checking in and stuff here I want this to just look a little bit smoother here now with rewarding for dog reactivity I have to make sure I've eliminated the reactivity first right positive reinforcement doesn't just reinforce physical things the dogs are doing it reinforces emotional states of mind also right so because of that if I'm in a position where she's still thinking about

reacting right I could possibly be reinforcing that state of mind a little bit as well here so once I've eliminated the behavior inhibited it I absolutely could add reinforcement into it but I would usually use like a food reward or something as opposed to praise praise is a little iffy depending on how you're using it right because it's not very clear it's very difficult to attach it precisely to a behavior right so because of that again you can accidentally reinforce things that you don't even know that you're reinforcing and again all this nonsense right now the reason why I'm using the pack corrector and I'm they're specifically addressing this reactive behaviors because we don't have any clear things established yet with this dog right so I'm going right in and I'm addressing that specific behavior that I care about and ignoring everything else because I don't care about leash pooling right now I don't care about that recall stuff that I was doing right now don't care about sale right now I just cared this dog is not reacting to other dogs so once you've addressed the reacting then that's when you would be like

yeah yeah for sure you kind of got to pick and choose your battles initially yeah I mean great so I'm gonna have you go out and bring me some of those treats here crazy about thank you all right so next what we're gonna do is I'm gonna have you keep walking past but this time for every pass that this dog does not react I'm gonna go ahead and reinforce and I'm just gonna use a yes marker for that I tend to want some degree of stability before I go to reinforce right I don't want to when she's all willy-nilly like that yes which also is very normal right throughout this process if they don't take food I'm not gonna try to force her to I'll keep offering it right but if she doesn't want it she doesn't want it yes yep if I'm dealing with dog reactivity yes right and some dogs you could use any collar for this all the same right the problem is so a lot of times we have two different types of dogs right so we have essentially mentally dominant dogs and physically dominant dogs and essentially a mentally dominant dog would be a dog that hyper fixates on things right so we get a lot of dogs that you see you can't break

that fixation right you can do whatever you want to them and it just it just doesn't happen the physically dominant dogs are the ones that typically you could kind of hit over the head with a 2x4 and they just don't care right so what happens a lot of times when we have a physically dominant dog you have to do something a little bit more psychological to them in order to kind of break that fixation we're on the contrary you could do something physical to interrupt them pretty quickly right so because the pet corrector is more of a mental tool you could break that fixation a lot easier right so that's why I tend to go with this first because I see most dogs be a lot more affected by this than the collar for stuff like that you can see now with these past bys she's starting to stabilize a little bit more I'll try to reward one more time here of what oh sure yeah oh yeah mmm yes and we'll probably see I would I would assume this dog when we go to socialize will be a lot more interesting to watch than this one because we know this one was fairly friendly right this one we were dealing with more problems of how

to socialize not so much like how to like get better with socialization yeah I mean so yeah we'll definitely get into that all right we're good appreciate it yep all right